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Voilamart eBike Conversion Kit Review

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The Voilamart ebike conversion kit – is it any good?

Voilamart are a global Chinese online retailer that sell everything from domestic appliances through to Beauty products. They also happen to sell budget ebike conversion kits. But just because they’re cheap doesn’t necessarily mean they aren’t any good.

The Voilamart 1000w ebike conversion kit represents excellent value for money, in this review I will go over the pros and cons, based on my own experience installing over 50 of these kits in the last 3 years.

What’s included in the Kit?

There are front and rear wheel kits available and a LCD display option. These kits contain almost everything you need to convert your bike to electric, apart from a battery.

voilamart 1000w 48v ebike conversion kit rear wheel

Voilamart rear wheel 48v 1000w ebike conversion kit (without LCD display)

  • 48v 1000w Rear wheel direct drive hub motor laced into a 26″ double-walled alloy rim with heavy-duty spokes
  • 48v 26A Motor controller
  • Controller Bag
  • Pedal assist sensor
  • Throttle with battery indicator display
  • Brake levers with cut-off sensors (for cable brakes only)
  • 7-Speed gear freewheel
  • 26″ x 1.75″ Mountain bike tire
  • Cable ties
  • Plastic wiring coil (for tidying up the cables)
  • Installation manual

Voilamart rear wheel 48v 1000w ebike conversion kit with LCD display

  • 48v 1000w Rear wheel direct drive hub motor laced into a 26″ double-walled alloy rim with heavy-duty spokes
  • 48v 26A motor controller
  • SW900 LCD Display
  • Controller Bag
  • Pedal assist sensor
  • Twist Throttle
  • Brake levers with cut-off sensors (for cable brakes only)
  • 7-Speed gear freewheel
  • 26″ x 1.75″ mountain bike tire
  • Cable ties
  • Plastic wiring coil (for tidying up the cables)
  • Installation manual

 

Motor Specification

The Voilamart kit uses a simple brushless DC direct drive hub motor. Direct drive motors have been around for years, and the principle is based on tried and tested technology. This kind of ebike motor may have seemed high-tech 20 years ago, but it is now considered old-hat when it comes to electric bike motors.

a voilamart 1000w ebike conversion kit fitted to a mountain bike

One benefit of direct drive hub motors, is they are cheap to manufacture, and fairly reliable. They do not have any internal moving parts (like geared hub motors) and they can generally handle quite a lot of power.

I have successfully run a 1000w Voilamart hub motor on a 45A controller with a 52v battery – producing over 2000w of peak power, with no reliability issues.

Legality

If you are in the UK, EU or Australia then the maximum continuous power output for an electric bicycle is 250w, with a speed limit of 15.5mph (25km/h) anything above that would be classed as a moped and subject to the same rules and regulations. You would only legally be able to ride your bike on private land.

This motor is rated at 1000w and is not speed limited. There is a plug on the controller, that when connected limits the output to 250w and speed to 15.5mph. I have looked into the law and it states quite clearly that the motor has to be ‘rated’ at 250w continuous.

US federal law is different and allows 750w and 20mph, so technically this motor would still be illegal there.

I’m not one for rules and regulations, but you need to be made aware of the potential legal implications before you purchase and install on of these kits.

Reliability

I have installed at least 50 of these kits over the last 3 years, and I have only ever had a couple of long-term issues reported off customers. Hall sensor failure has occurred on maybe 3 or 4 units, and I have had one controller failure, and one LCD display pack up.

Another issue you will encounter is broken spokes. If you here a ‘clicking’ sound when riding, you will need to check the spokes for tightness. If you need to replace a broken spoke, you will need the correct length and gauge. I would recommend buying a pack of spokes and a wheel truing stand, for ongoing maintenance.

bicycle wheel truing stand

Thankfully, because these kits are so cheap, so are the replacement components. The hall sensors can be replaced, if your are good with a soldering iron. The motor controller costs around £30 ($40) and the SW900 LCD display can be purchased off Aliexpress for about $50.

In my experience, Voilamart are quite helpful when it comes to warranty claims. The only issue being, the replacement part is usually sent from China, so delivery may take a little while.

What types of bike are best suited?

I would personally go for an old ChroMo steel mountain bike, or cruiser. Steel bends, alloy breaks! All older mountain bikes and cruisers have 26″ wheels. It would be advised to upgrade the brakes if possible, as these kits add a lot of weight to a bike once fitted.

A Vintage mountain bike fitted with a 1000w rear wheel ebike conversion kit

Installation and Compatibility

The Voilamart electric bike kit is only available in a 26″ wheel version, to my knowledge they do not supply any other size. This is probably to keep costs down and simplify things.

If your bike has disc brakes fitted, you could get away with fitting a smaller 26″ rear wheel to say, a 27.5″ wheeled mountain bike. I have done it before, without any negative impact on handling. This wouldn’t work with v-brakes, as the drop on the brake calipers would not reach the braking surface on the rim.

CHECK PRICE ON EBAY

The motor axle can sometimes be a tight squeeze to get into the dropouts. On occasion you may need to file the dropouts slightly to accommodate the larger axle.

Although the specification states that the kit is suitable for 135mm rear dropouts, you will nearly always have to pull them apart slightly to get the axle to fit in. You will also need to use the spacers provided, otherwise the rear brake caliper will rub on the motor hub casing.

Torque arm kit for electric bike hub motor

When you are indexing the rear gear shifting, you will need to set the ‘low’ limit screw on the rear derailleur, otherwise it will rub on the motor casing when in 1st gear (largest cog on the rear freewheel).

If you have hydraulic brakes, the brake levers supplied will not be compatible, so you will either need to purchase separate cut-off sensors or not bother at all. On a motor with this kind of power output, it would be wise to purchase the sensors (especially if you are using a throttle).

I would not recommend the front motor if you have disc brakes,  I have fitted a few of the front hub motors and the brake caliper nearly always rubs on the motor, regardless of adjustment.

This kit does not come with a torque-arm. I would highly recommend purchasing one of these, as it will prevent the motor axle from popping out of the dropouts. Something you definitely don’t want happening at speed!

Performance

When installed properly, these kits will turn your humble bicycle into quite a fast electric bike. I have recorded speeds of around 30mph on the flat (without pedalling). At the very least you will need a good 48v or 52v battery with a minimum continuous current rating of 30A – the controller will draw a maximum of 26A.

voilamart 48v 26a motor controller with wiring diagram

Another thing to consider is battery range. A direct drive hub motor is the least energy efficient electric bike motor, so you will not get a particularly good range out of something like a 48v 10.4Ah battery, unless you are really frugal with the power, and pedal a lot.

A good starting point for a battery would be a 48v 17.5Ah battery with a 30A BMS. This is going to be the most expensive part of the conversion. Of course, if you are only planning on using your bike for relatively short journeys then a 10Ah battery should be fine.

What if I run out of battery power?

Good luck pedalling! Direct drive hub motors are not only heavy, but you have the resistance of the motor to overcome. Pedalling one of these with the power off (particularly uphill) can be quite a challenge. I know, I’ve been in that position before! If you want a motor you can pedal comfortably with the electric assist off, then I would recommend a geared Bafang hub motor.

Conclusion

If you want to build a fast electric bike on a budget, then the Voilamart kit offers excellent value for money. It’s a simple, low-tech solution to building your own ebike. The motor is heavy and inefficient, but it will provide you with enough power to put a smile on your face, and it will get you up most hills with ease.

Factor in the cost of a medium-sized 48v battery, and you can build your bike for less than the price of the cheapest Chinese ebike.

 

These kits are generally reliable, more so than the more expensive Bafang mid-drive motors. If they do go wrong, everything is fairly cheap and easy to replace. You could even buy a second kit so you had a back-up of spare parts.

Just keep in mind the legal aspect. And most of all – ride safe! If you’re planning on using your creation on the road, try and keep your speed down in built-up areas, and always ghost pedal. That way you won’t draw any unwanted attention to yourself.

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Voilamart 1000w 48v ebike conversion kit

7

Value for Money

10.0/10

Performance

8.0/10

Efficiency

3.0/10

Pros

  • Excellent Value for Money
  • More than enough power
  • Fairly straightforward installation

Cons

  • Heavy
  • Inefficient
  • Antiquated

65 thoughts on “Voilamart eBike Conversion Kit Review

  • July 15, 2020 at 3:19 pm
    Permalink

    Value for Money

    8

    Performance

    5

    Efficiency

    6

    Hi, i’m from Italy and i have bought a pre-owned Voilamart 250W kit like this , eight months ago:

    aliexpress.com/item/4000738981902.html

    Works flawlessy, but perhaps now it is a bit more noisy than before. Do you know the name of the manufacturer for future spare parts (planetary gears)? I guess Voilamart is just the company that sells these motors. I have sent an e-mail to Voilamart, no reply till now.

    Thank you in advance

    Michele

    Reply
    • July 16, 2020 at 8:22 am
      Permalink

      Hi Michele,

      The Voilamart geared hub motor is a generic design so the planetary gear should be straightforward to replace if necessary. You will need to remove it and take a photo – Greenbikekit.com are very good for hub motor replacement parts. It may also be worth removing the cover (of the planetary gear system) and applying a small amount white grease to the gears, sometimes this quietens down the motor a little.

      I hope this helps, if you need any more advice, please let me know.

      Regards,
      Tony

      Reply
  • July 2, 2020 at 3:00 pm
    Permalink

    I have an original Sondors skinny tire version ebike . I could go about 10 + miles on a charge ( varying terrain ) with the Sondors. Do you think the Voilamart 500 hub, with 36v battery on a 26″ tire size mountain bike frame could run that distance ?

    Reply
    • July 2, 2020 at 5:40 pm
      Permalink

      I reckon with a 36v 10Ah battery you should be able to get around that battery range. I used to get around 15 miles from a similar 500w rear direct drive hub motor using a cheap 36v 13Ah battery (hilly terrain, full assist).

      Reply
  • July 2, 2020 at 8:11 am
    Permalink

    Hi Tony ,
    Sorted Pas , was a signal wire not matching up.(need to go to Specsavers.)
    But now blown my new Kt controller on the first big hill attempted. All the wiring is ok ,I have it fixed it in an XL box , but told by the vendor that’s not good . I feel like I’m flogging a dead horse here , some info suggests mounting it open on the frame for airflow which makes sense but will look crap , 2 controllers in 17 miles ,it seems like everyone else with a ebike lives somewhere flat .Set all the KT3 parameters up correctly ,only thing that’s new is fitting new levers for re gen which was working ok according to display .
    Any suggestions ????
    Cheers Tony.

    Reply
    • July 2, 2020 at 9:12 am
      Permalink

      Hi Shaun,

      What a nightmare! Those KT controllers are usually very reliable. I had a 1500w version once (with a 48v20Ah triangle battery), fitted to an old Steel Saracen rigid MTB and I screwed the controller directly onto an aluminium pannier rack with a waterproof cover over it. It didn’t look particularly good, but it held out. A lot of the hills near where I live are 10% average gradient over half a mile, and the controller used to still get quite hot to the touch. I managed to melt the phase wires on one climb (on an earlier build). That’s why I eventually moved away from DD hub motors and went to mid-drives. What battery are you using with yours?

      Cheers,
      Tony

      Reply
  • June 23, 2020 at 6:05 pm
    Permalink

    Hi Tony.
    Just fitted kt controller and KT3 display and not getting p.a.s or power levels .All plugs fitted but some wires looked different colours and had to cut the throttle from 5 to 3 wires red black and blue other than that everything seemed ok.
    I have set the basics up but not advanced parameters ,but I would not have thought they would cause this problem.I really need to sort this as I have friends wanting me to build the voilamart kit but I don’t want to use their controller.
    Cheers.

    Reply
    • June 23, 2020 at 9:22 pm
      Permalink

      Hi Shaun,

      You will probably need to change some of the P and C settings on the display. Here is a link to a good thread on endless-sphere.com explaining what they do.

      P1 is for the number of magnets inside the motor (can’t remember that one), P4 is for the throttle – if set to ‘1’ the throttle will only work once the bike is going about 4-6mph, if set to ‘0’ the throttle can be used from a standstill. C1 relates to the amount of magnets on the PAS sensor disc – if this number is wrong the PAS won’t work.

      Have a play around with the settings and see how you get on. When I first used a KT controller there was a bit of trial and error involved.

      Let me know how you get on.

      Cheers,
      Tony

      Reply
  • June 21, 2020 at 3:42 pm
    Permalink

    Value for Money

    8.5

    Performance

    8.5

    Efficiency

    4

    Hi Tony, i was hoping ot change to a thum controlle with a voltage readout. i have one bit it has :-
    5 Wires:

    Green: Hall signal; Red—Throttle +5V

    Black: Negative Wire; Yellow: Battery +

    Blue: Power lock wire output

    the unit has a 3 pin ( black, red ,green) connection and blue and yellow with bullet connectors
    can i follow the colour code and connect to the controller as above. ?
    also regarding the power switch (on off) blue / yellow one what would i pair this off onto?

    fyi
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Black-12V-72V-LED-Thumb-Throttle-W-Power-Switch-Voltage-For-Electric-E-bike-1/224024079703?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
    thanks in advance
    alan.

    Reply
    • June 22, 2020 at 8:00 am
      Permalink

      Hi Alan,

      I can’t say with certainty this throttle / voltage reader combo will work for sure with the original Voilamart controller, the colour coding is always different with a lot of Chinese components, so there may be a bit of trial and error involved. For the price it’s probably worth a go.

      Regards,
      Tony

      Reply
  • June 16, 2020 at 9:52 pm
    Permalink

    Hi Tony Ed here got a problem with a 500 w front wheel kit when you turn the throttle the wheel shudders any ideas cheers ed

    Reply
    • June 16, 2020 at 11:44 pm
      Permalink

      Hi Ed,

      It sounds to me like you may have a faulty hall sensor – these can be replaced if you’re handy with a soldering iron. First I would check the motor to controller connector. If that’s alright then you’ll need to remove the motor from the wheel and examine the circuit board inside the motor and the wiring loom (as this sometimes causes the problem). Hall sensors are very cheap to replace, but you will need to identify the type you have on your motor and go over to RScomponents – they’re about 75p each, most motors have 3 hall sensors and if you’re replacing one, you might as well replace all 3.

      If you need any more help, let me know.

      Cheers,
      Tony

      Reply
  • June 16, 2020 at 7:52 pm
    Permalink

    Hi Tony
    Had my voilamart 1000w rear hub drive and only covered about 50 miles and the motor is grinding only when I pedal and throttle , there is no noise and the wheel is free but have noticed the 3 motor wires connecting to the controller have melted slightly. Only had it 3 days and I love it or did ,please help .!!!

    Reply
    • June 16, 2020 at 11:37 pm
      Permalink

      Hi Shaun,

      The 3 phase wires are connected via bullet connectors and it is common to get resistance and heat build-up especially when the motor is under load (particularly when going up steep hills). The best way to remedy the problem is to mount the controller to something metal to provide a heat-sink and use a ceramic block connector to join the green, yellow and blue wires. I would also contact the seller and get them to send you a new controller. Let me know if you need any more advice.

      Cheers,
      Tony

      Reply
      • June 19, 2020 at 2:56 pm
        Permalink

        Cheers Tony ,
        I have taken your advice and got a KT controller to go with my KT3 display (which I thought was a Sw900) having waited 3 weeks for.!!
        Kt a lot dearer but 3 day delivery as oppose to 3-6 week from China so no brainer.
        Will the sine wave make much difference to efficiency of the battery life.??
        Cheers.

        Reply
        • June 19, 2020 at 9:32 pm
          Permalink

          Hi Shaun,

          If there is any improvement in efficiency it will be minimal, it makes the whole motor run a bit smoother and quieter though so it is definitely worth it. The KT controllers are so much better than the cheap ones that come with the Voilamart kit.

          Let me know how it all goes.

          Cheers,
          Tony

          Reply
  • June 10, 2020 at 8:02 am
    Permalink

    Value for Money

    9.5

    Performance

    9.5

    Efficiency

    4.5

    Hi Tony, where did you get the Hall sensors from. Getting a constant 5V from all the sensors when turning the wheel. Expected one to have failed but looks like all 3.

    Reply
    • June 10, 2020 at 9:02 am
      Permalink

      Hi Jim,

      RS components, they should have the correct hall sensors in stock, I think they’re about 75p each. Here is the link to their website.

      Regards,
      Tony

      Reply
      • June 18, 2020 at 9:06 am
        Permalink

        Hi Tony, thanks for that. Fault was one of the wires had come lose and one of the sensors had fallen out, I’m at a loss as to how that could of occurred. 3 soldered points ???
        I’m thinking it could of occurred when my mate took a tumble on the bike a while ago, hit the curb which threw him off headlong into a wall. Dislocated shoulder, I couldn’t stop laughing when I found him, don’t think I’m mentally equipt to deal with a fully grown adult whining like a baby. Thing is its been used since then, so go figure ??
        Anyhow all working and once this shit weather does one we’ll be out and about again.

        Reply
        • June 18, 2020 at 10:22 am
          Permalink

          Hi Jim,

          Thanks for letting me know, glad you managed to get it sorted. To be honest, those kits are built down to a price and poor / dry solder points aren’t uncommon. The jarring of the accident might have played a part – I’d have had trouble dealing the whining too🤣 that’s why I ride alone most of the time!

          Cheers,
          Tony

          Reply
      • July 9, 2020 at 5:18 pm
        Permalink

        Tony will this Conversion kit work on a Schwinn beach cruiser I have a 500 W 48 V frog battery

        Reply
        • July 9, 2020 at 6:17 pm
          Permalink

          Hi Brian,

          I’ve fitted one of these kits to a Schwinn beach cruiser before and if my memory serves me correct, the only issue I had was mounting the pedal assist sensor (the Schwinn has an old style one-piece crank / bottom bracket). Your battery may work with the Voilamart kit providing the continuous current rating (in amps) matches the minimum required by the controller – I think it’s 22 Amps.

          I hope this helps. If you need any more advice, let me know.

          Cheers,
          Tony

          Reply
  • May 31, 2020 at 4:25 pm
    Permalink

    Value for Money

    9.5

    Performance

    8

    Efficiency

    8

    Tony, can you let me know how to reduce the acceleration from the pedal sensors as the bike accelerates at max rate as soon as i begin to pedal.
    Is there access to the controller to adjust this at all.

    i have the 1000w 48v rear wheel kit

    i am very please wiht the unit over all. th ebuild quality seems high.
    the unit is very very quiet
    35km on a 12ah 48v battery so very happy there too off road. but the range would be greater if the acceleration was reduced as it would allow me to ride to help it along. thanks in advance
    Alan

    Reply
    • June 1, 2020 at 7:41 am
      Permalink

      Hi Alan,

      Here is a link to a PDF copy of the SW900 user manual. The settings you will need to change are P11 PAS sensitivity (1-24) and P12 start strength (0-5). I would have a play around with the settings and see what works best for you. As a starting point I would lower the start strength incrementally until it feels softer on the uptake.

      If you need any more advice, let me know.

      Cheers,
      Tony

      Reply
      • June 1, 2020 at 1:41 pm
        Permalink

        Value for Money

        9.5

        Performance

        8

        Efficiency

        8

        Tony,
        Thank you for your reply. I have a small lcd screen on the throttle controller only, so i guess i need a sw900 unit, will the plug straight into one of the multi plugs off the controller?
        do you have a recommended vendor for the sw900.

        thanks Alan.

        Reply
        • June 2, 2020 at 9:55 am
          Permalink

          Hi Alan,

          The SW900 display should plug straight in. I’ve just checked on eBay, and there are no sellers with UK stock. The only one’s I could find were displatched from China. Here is a link to the product page.

          Regards,
          Tony

          Reply
          • July 6, 2020 at 9:52 pm
            Permalink

            Value for Money

            0

            Performance

            1.5

            Efficiency

            0

            I have a question about the 1500w with controller built in don’t see to much about them guess it must be a new thing but wanted to see if you know anything about it and is it worth buying or is it better to buy the one with the controller on the outside

          • July 7, 2020 at 7:51 am
            Permalink

            Hi,

            I fitted one of these Voilamart 1500w kits with the built-in controller a couple of years back. The motor itself was very smooth and quiet. My only complaint was the wheel was incredibly heavy. The customer I converted the bike for hasn’t had any issues (to my knowledge). I would still personally go for an external controller as if there are any problems they are much easier to replace.

            All the best,
            Tony

      • July 15, 2020 at 8:49 am
        Permalink

        Hi Tony
        I’m struggling to find how I can control the pedal assist power. It’s dangerous as it just flies straight away when you pedal. I have the voilamart 48v front wheel kit. Twist throttle. I love all of it. But I need to find an lcd monitor and I guess I need to change the controller as it doesn’t have a spare cable for monitor. Please can you help. Thank you.

        Reply
        • July 16, 2020 at 8:17 am
          Permalink

          Hi Bryan,

          I usually fit ‘KT’ series controllers in conjunction with a KT-LCD3 display. If your current controller has a 5-pin block connector that goes to the throttle, you could just purchase an SW900 LCD display – these are available from eBay (via a Chinese seller). Here is a link for the KT controller and display combo.

          If you get either display they can be configured so the pedal assist uptake is much softer when starting. There are a couple of good threads over at endless-sphere for the KT display settings and SW900 settings.

          If you have any more questions, please let me know.

          All the best,
          Tony

          Reply
  • May 30, 2020 at 8:54 pm
    Permalink

    This thread is really useful, thank you 🙂 I have a 1500w Voilamart controller, and I would like to know if it’s possible to use a smaller battery like 1000w or 750w with the same controller or should I replace the controller for one of the correct rating? Thank you

    Reply
    • May 30, 2020 at 9:46 pm
      Permalink

      Hi Toby,

      If your controller is the same as the one’s I’ve had experience with they should be dual voltage – 36v / 48v. It should say on the label of the controller. The only thing you’ll need to make sure is that the battery’s discharge current is no lower than the nominal current stated on the controller. I think the 1500w is 35A max and 25A min. So you can use any battery as long as it has a 25A BMS. Most 48v 13Ah batteries have a 25A BMS, but if in doubt check the specification first.

      Cheers,
      Tony

      Reply
  • May 23, 2020 at 10:12 pm
    Permalink

    Hi there, I’ve recently purchased a Voilamart 1500w rear drive kit.. and I simply cannot get the thing to fire up at all. I purchased a 21amp battery, have wired everything up and getting no movement nor lights (on the throttle mounted display) at all. I’ve disconnected every component, and when I connect the only the positive and negative wires from the battery to the controller it appears that it is shorting out the battery, as the multi-meter reads 1.2 volts down from the initial 54 volts . I’ve removed the screws and slid the controller out of the housing to see if there was anything burnt out or popped (other than the positive wire for the light connection not being connected), but I have noticed that the major solder points on the PCB appear to have been resoldered (different finish and excess flux on only on those areas)… I’m waiting on a reply from the seller, but is there anything else that you might be able to suggest?

    Reply
    • May 25, 2020 at 9:48 am
      Permalink

      I’ve had a handful of issues with Voilamart controllers, either not working out of the box, or failing shortly after installation. I would personally recommend upgrading to a KT series controller (at least 48v 30A) and KT-LCD3 display. The KT controller’s use better quality MOSFET’s as well.

      Reply
  • May 21, 2020 at 8:36 pm
    Permalink

    Hey on the 1500w kit the controller has a empty headlight led plug .. can I use that for anyheadlight or their one that I have to buy for that plug ?

    Reply
    • May 22, 2020 at 8:43 pm
      Permalink

      Hi,

      I haven’t tried any headlights with the Voilamart kit, so can’t say which one will work correctly. You will ideally need one with a 36v / 48v output – like this one from Amazon.

      All the best,
      Tony

      Reply
  • May 20, 2020 at 3:08 am
    Permalink

    Value for Money

    0

    Performance

    3.5

    Efficiency

    0

    One more question: the efficiency is rated as poor… why is that? Is that inherent to all brushless hub motors?

    Thanks again!

    Reply
  • May 20, 2020 at 3:06 am
    Permalink

    There are three wires from the motor with bullet connectors: yellow, blue, blue-green. There are 3 corresponding wires from the controller: yellow, black, blue.
    I connected yellow to yellow, blue to blue, black to blue green. I haven’t connected the PAS to anything. Not getting any torque out so far.
    Is the pedal assist sensor required?
    What does the red button on the throttle/display do?
    I’m ready to roll! Will try to get crank off so I can install PAS. Thank you!

    Reply
    • May 20, 2020 at 8:39 am
      Permalink

      Hi Chris,
      The black wire coming from the controller is the battery negative wire and should not be connected to the green phase wire. There should be 3 corresponding phase wires on the controller yellow, blue and green that match the 3 phase wires coming from the motor.

      Double check and let me know.

      Regards,
      Tony

      Reply
      • May 21, 2020 at 5:52 pm
        Permalink

        Damn! Thank you! I must’ve been having an over-excited senior moment!
        Got the wiring corrected and now it works fine. (Funny how that happens)
        Now to test the range! 36V, 20Ah battery.
        Thanks again! You’re a life-saver!
        -Chris
        (I don’t believe in rating things till I’ve had a chance to use them a while, but for now, this seems pretty fun!)

        Reply
        • May 21, 2020 at 8:39 pm
          Permalink

          No worries, glad to help.

          All the best,
          Tont

          Reply
  • May 10, 2020 at 12:20 pm
    Permalink

    Hi Instead of using the throttle control supplied could I use a thumb type controller instead , I think I would prefer it this way .

    Reply
    • May 10, 2020 at 12:42 pm
      Permalink

      Yes, you can use a thumb throttle. I have fitted them before to Voilamart conversions. You need to make sure it has the same 3-pin block connector as your current throttle. Here is one on eBay that should do the trick (check the connector block in the photo).

      Cheers,
      Tony

      Reply
      • May 10, 2020 at 1:40 pm
        Permalink

        Thanks Tony , this one looks fine and a UK seller .
        My conversion kit is on its way so just a quick question the blue road legal cable will reduce you to 250w , so if I do not plug it in and it will be higher output.
        Obviously this is when I will be riding offroad !

        thanks
        Dave

        Reply
        • May 10, 2020 at 4:08 pm
          Permalink

          Yes, that’s correct. There’s 2 blue wires coming out of the controller (silver box) with a male and female connector. Plug them in and it limits the power output down to 250w.

          Reply
          • May 12, 2020 at 8:49 pm
            Permalink

            Sorry about all the questions , but will the kit come with connectors for attaching my battery to . Its hard to work out looking a just pictures . I have purchased a 48v 13ah battery but it doesnt show what connectors look like , hoping they are all standard .

            thanks
            Dave

          • May 13, 2020 at 8:07 am
            Permalink

            Hi Dave,

            The Voilamart kit use Male / Female bullet connectors for the positive and negative battery connection, whether or not they will correspond to the connectors on your battery is another matter. Sometimes you’ll find they correspond, but are either too big or small. What I usually do if this is the case is either solder and heat shrink the + – or change the connectors to something like an XT90. If the connectors fit, but are just a bit too big, you can crimp and use heat shrink.

            Regards,
            Tony

    • May 30, 2020 at 9:02 am
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      I have the front wheel Voilamart conversion 48v and would like to know if anyone has found a suitable battery and charger ……I fear I may have made a big mistake with this one ?

      Reply
      • May 30, 2020 at 2:46 pm
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        Hi,

        If have found a 48v 13Ah battery on eBay Australia. It should be compatible with the Voilamart motor. You will get a range of between 30km – 50km depending on how much power you use.

        Reply
  • April 22, 2020 at 10:59 pm
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    Value for Money

    10

    Performance

    0

    Efficiency

    0

    I have a vpower battery 48volts 26ah.
    How do I wire the battery to the controller ?

    Reply
    • April 23, 2020 at 8:38 pm
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      You need to connect the positive (red) to the red (on the controller) and negative (black) to black on the controller. If your connectors are different, it would be worth using XT90 connectors due to the high output of your battery. The other alternative (if the connectors are not matching) is to solder and heat shrink the positive and negative wires, or use a ceramic block connector.

      Reply
      • April 23, 2020 at 9:52 pm
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        Value for Money

        10

        Performance

        0

        Efficiency

        0

        Thank you. I’m operational now

        Reply
      • May 13, 2020 at 4:50 pm
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        hi what happens if I use the pas and throttle at the same time as I have no lcd screen

        Reply
        • May 13, 2020 at 6:42 pm
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          Hi Kyle,

          You should be able to use the PAS and throttle simultaneously on the Voilmart. If you’ve got switchable power modes and you’re in level one, hitting the throttle will give you a boost.

          Reply
          • May 20, 2020 at 9:45 pm
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            Value for Money

            10

            Performance

            10

            Efficiency

            10

            Hi
            I must say everything you’ve written in this article is 100% accurate. I have been usimg vialomart parts for the past 9 months. My first bike was an absolute beast.

            But I’ve built a 2nd bike with a brand new kit becaise my first bike got destroyed in a crash. The 2nd kit came with the SW900 parameters not set correctly. I’ve had several back and forth messages woth Violamart to get the correct settings only to realize that they are just doing branded drop shipping and they are very reluctant to contact the actual manufacturer to help me. I’ve been riding my new bike to work everyday now with the PAS level 1 running at 500-600W and levels 4 & 5 are useless because at level 3 the power max out. (It is a 48V kit). I’ve tried altering every parameter I can think of on the LCD but what I have now is the best I can get. I would be very grateful if you can check all the SW900 parameters of a 48V Violamart kit if you have one and share with me.

            I also have a 2nd question. Do you know how many Amps can the Lamp wires coming out of the controller can output? This controller is mot capable of responding to the SW900 lamp ON trigger (press and hold UP key). The controller constantly outputs 48V through the lamp wires from the moment the controller itswlf switches on. I habe added turning indicators, brake lights, front lights to my bike using HP tablet battery and step up buck converters. All my lights are 12V. I am planning on getting rid of this tablet battery and drawimg ppwer from the controller lamp wires to 48v to 12v 10A step down converter. But I am worried about the power limits of the controller’s 2 wires. Thanks so much for the article and in advance for your response.

          • May 21, 2020 at 11:39 pm
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            Hi Kushan,

            I’ve had exactly the same issue with the Voilamart kit and SW900 display. I’ve tried changing the parameters (according to a thread on Endless-Sphere) but the amount of power always remains the same in levels 1-5. I managed to sort it out by purchasing a separate KT 48v 26A controller along with a KTLCD3 display – using this combination I could get the power levels to correspond to the assist.

            Regarding the light wire, I’m not sure of the output in amps, but I believe one of my old customers has been using lights with his (connected to the controller). I’ll try and get hold of him to find out what set-up he is using.

            All the best,
            Tony

          • May 25, 2020 at 10:46 pm
            Permalink

            Hi Tony

            Thanks for the reply. How I’ve managed to get some difference in PAS level 1-3 on SW900 is by changing the number of speed magnets to 50. On the Ebikeling.com website there is a manual for the parameters in which they say that it’s 47 for direct drive motors. And I’ve read on a few forums that it’s 48. But I opened the Violamart motor and counted 50 neodymium magnets. Since i entered 50 in the SW900, I’ve got some difference between levels. It’s not perfect but if you would like to get some use of your old SW900 and the controller, you can with this method.

          • May 26, 2020 at 7:39 am
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            Hi Kushan,

            Thanks for sharing, that’s really useful to know. Much appreciated.

            All the best,
            Tony

  • February 15, 2020 at 10:23 pm
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    Olá tive um problema meu painel não quer mostrar meu consumo de energia aquele que aparece em baixo para que eu controle minha bateria durante o dia ! E a velocidade também está instável não aparenta estar certa tem solução para isso ?

    Reply
    • February 16, 2020 at 1:06 pm
      Permalink

      Olá, Parece que seu painel de exibição pode precisar ser configurado. Você sabe qual é o seu painel de exibição – é o SW900 ou o KT-LCD3? Se o parâmetro de voltagem da bateria estiver definido incorretamente, o indicador da bateria não funcionará. A medição da velocidade é feita internamente usando o número de ímãs no motor – se essa configuração estiver incorreta, você obterá uma leitura falsa da velocidade. Deixe-me saber qual tela você possui e enviarei um link para as configurações e como alterá-las. Atenciosamente, Tony

      Reply
      • June 1, 2020 at 7:35 am
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        Hi Tony, have you ever had one of the kits switch direction. I’ve been using mine 250\500w hub for a few days and turned it on and went in reverse. I’ve switched hall and phase wires now to go forward. I guess there is a reverse switch cable but can’t locate it. Any help appreciated. Regards Dan.

        Reply
        • June 1, 2020 at 2:16 pm
          Permalink

          Hi Dan,

          It’s not something I’ve come across before, and I’ve fitted quite a lot of these kits over the last 3 years. It sounds to me like either a fault with the controller or motor wiring loom. I’ve had one of those motors to bits before and the quality of the wiring inside isn’t too great. If you get stuck, I’ve got a spare Voilamart controller here if you need one.

          Cheers,
          Tony

          Reply
        • July 20, 2020 at 10:10 am
          Permalink

          Value for Money

          9

          Performance

          8

          Efficiency

          8.5

          Did you ever get parameters sorted because mine judders on throttle like a knocking in the hub?

          Reply
          • July 20, 2020 at 3:09 pm
            Permalink

            Hi Luke,

            It almost sounds like you’ve got a problem with either the hall sensors (inside the motor) or a bad connection. Do you have pedal assist fitted or is it just throttle control?

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